This has been a long time coming. As I approach my 3rd year living here I thought I’d do a comprehensive guide to visiting Lisbon and surrounding areas. To be honest it’s as much to help myself as anything else, increasingly more of you are asking for recommendations for Lisbon trips. I will update as necessary as and when I find new places as this is normally a week occurrence. If dogs are allowed I’ll say 🐶, if not I won’t.
Hotels will not be my speciality, as I’ve only stayed in a few, when we were on our scouting trips, pre migration. However, I’ve visited some for dinner and rooftop bars etc. Obviously, everything is just my opinion, and things can change dramatically over time, so please take as a recommendation and then do your own research.
Just in case you don’t notice, each recommendation is hyperlinked, mainly to instagram accounts.x
Restaurants
JNcQUOI Asia is a delightful gem! With it’s chic ambiance and exotic flavours, it’s the perfect spot to indulge in a delicious Asian feast on a special occasion. The menu boasts a fusion of traditional dishes and some fab innovative creations showcasing the chefs culinary skills. From mouth-wateringly and freshly prepared sushi to delectable ramen, JNcQ Asia has it all.
Top Tip - Don’t forget to try their lunch time special deal (Mon-Fri), giving you the same experience for a fraction of the price. Also for the summer dining they have a really quirky courtyard. ££££ (unless you opt for the special)
Pomme Eatery Step into a cozy haven of culinary delights. The cute decor and warm ambiance, instantly set the mood for an unforgettable dining experience. The menu is a tantalising fusion of Portuguese mixed with international flavours. Each dish has been meticulously crafted to make your dining experience a feast of all senses. 🐶
Top Tip - Must try dishes the house dish of chicken Kyiv, the chicken lollipops and my personal favourite, the mushrooms on toast. ££
Le Jardim D'Eden This delightful restaurant is a little off the beaten track but is so worth a visit. Step into a fairy-wonderland L Jardim transports you into a lush oasis amidst the hustle and bustle of the city. The menu is delightfully french, offering some mouth watering options at a very affordable price. This includes the delicious french wines to accompany your meal.
Top Tip - We found a special offer on The Fork for this gorgeous place. TT2 - check out Campo Ourique while here, the food market is fabulous and the Graveyard is worth a walk around (as crazy as this may sound) ££
Taberna Dos Ferreiros We love this little no frills Taberna, tucked around the side street of Belem. I’m told, it is ran by two brothers with one front of house and the other in the kitchen. The food is good, wholesome Portuguese style cooking. What the place might lack in a fancy interior, it definitely makes up for in every other aspect. The food is incredible, the service is charming, the Alentejo wine served crisp and cold and the prices are fantastic.
TopTip - For the peanut butter lovers amongst you, DO NOT miss out on their peanut mousse, served in a brandy snap basket ££
Taberna Sal Grosso After a couple of years of wanting to try this place and not quite making it, we wasn’t disappointed, a teeny tiny pocket of yumminess, full of atmosphere, and tasty dishes.
TopTip - Book ahead to not be disappointed, this place is teeny and gets full to the rafters. ££
Restaurante Brillhante Located in Cais do Sodre, here you can enjoy stunning interior, incredible steak dishes & fabulous cocktails. I had wanted to try this place forever and it didn’t disappoint. So chic, with excellent service. For a special occasion this is a good idea.
TopTip - The perfect instagramable dining venue. ££££
Belcanto This place is a pure culinary delight. The moment we stepped in, I was captivated by its elegant ambiance, it is oozing with sophistication. Let’s talk about the food. The menu is a masterpiece, for me Jose Avellez’s creativity is unrivalled here in PT. If I could only recommend one place to eat here, this would be my place. Each plate is an exquisite work of art, but without compromising the incredible flavours that dance around your taste buds.
TopTip - You need to book, with 2 Michelin Stars this place is a serious contender for PT’s No. 1 ££££
Cura Another real favourite, this would be my second Michelin Star rated choice, located in the Four Seasons Hotel. Cura is a gastronomic experience that you won’t forget. The tastes, the setting, the service every single thing is a work of art. If you’re looking for an unforgettable dining experience in Lisbon, Cura very much fits the bill!
TopTip - The waiting staff are so informative, we learnt so much about where their produce came from, specifically their wonderful olive oil and wines. TTNo2 you really can’t miss the petite four truffles, I’m still dreaming of them a year later! ££££
Sud I really enjoyed eating here. This place has live music, on the evening we went, it was a swing style singer, who was excellent. The food is nice, but not amazing, would I go back? Yes defiantly, just for the views alone, the restaurant is located in Belem on the Tagus river, with unrivalled views of the Christ statue and 25th April bridge, we arrived when it was still light, but as the sun dropped the view became even more magical.
TopTip - SUD has a fab rooftop bar, so after you’ve eaten, head up there, enjoy the stunning views with a cocktail or three. £££
Oven (Nepalese) Actually this is my most favourite place to eat in Lisbon, we’ve eaten here so many times, and it never disappoints. Harri the head chef is a genius, if he doesn’t get a Michelle star any time soon it's a travesty. Every dish is incredible and believe me, I’ve tried them all, well except for the super hot ones, but my dinner companions have and give their approval. The restaurant style is elegantly understated and Harri and his team go above and beyond to make the experience the best it can be. With the little yellow trams trundling past every few minutes you really feel immersed into the Lisbon vibe.
TopTip - Try a glass of the house white, its cool crisp and perfectly paired, if not, a great alternative, is one of Ovens delectable cocktails. The chilli mushroom starter is also a must even for the most committed of meat-eaters ££
A Nossa Casa in Barrio Alto. Indulge yourself, with the delicious modern flavours of Brazil, that A Nossa Casa brings to the table. Another tiny gem amongst the madness of this crazy touristy area, the menu changes regularly, but the quality doesn’t (its always fabulous) and that is why, whenever we frequent this gorgeous establishment. There is a constant stream of tourists trying to secure a table, that the more informed locals have booked ahead.
TopTip - This is tapas style eating, you are going to want to try everything on the menu, so bring along some friends and book ahead.
Officio Ok, so this is a really cute restaurant with great food, service, location, and drinks and nice decor. But the main reason this place has made it onto my list, is the dessert, OMG the Basque style cheesecake is the thing dreams are made of! I can’t walk past this place without my mouth watering. Recently we went to a guest chef evening and to my horror the cc wasn’t on offer, I could have cried, thankfully I passed my sadness onto our waiter and he crept out back and brought me a slice (see, I already told you the staff are fab)
TopTip - Don’t miss the cheesecake OBVS & look out for local guest chef nights
Breakfast/Brunch
Dear Breakfast One of the first brunch places we tried when we arrived here, unfortunately the branch that was our favourite (purely for the views, the food is good in all ) has now closed. But these are good, its a nice small chain, the service is good, they are always in nice locations, and the ambiance is always a pleasure, plus they allow dogs, now for me that’s always a win, even if I’ve not got my two with me, I love to see a furry friend on a table near by. ££ 🐶
Fauna & Flora we have a brunch of this tiny chain in the next village to us, the menu is good, pancakes, toasts, eggs and bacon, bowls, sliders, bagels, the staff are friendly, but sometimes they can be a little slow!!! Dogs are allowed! ££ 🐶
Moinho THIS IS MY ONE BREAKFAST PLACE I’D RECOMMEND if i could only choose one!! It’s like a magical land, up in the Sintra mountains, over looking the Guincho coastline, its truly magical (I know I’ve said it twice but honestly go and tell me different !!!!!) The staff are great, the resident dogs are lush, the food is sooooooo good, and the views are spectacular!!!! And the dogs are allowed. In fact I feel like I should stop typing and go now!!! £££ 🐶
TT - This place is also next to Cabo da Roca, the closest European mainland point to North America.
Kafeine You need to try their pancakes, fluffy, tall, delectable deliciousness !!!! We regularly go to the one in Cascais Marina, but they are also in central Lisbon, also the lobster sub is the bombe!!!! Dogs are allowed! ££ 🐶
Amelia IF YOU LOVE FRENCH TOAST, this is your place for brunch, super pretty setting, with a lovely outside area, dogs are allowed. ££ 🐶
Janis Opposite Time Out market, this place is always busy, dogs are allowed, but tbh, I’ve tried it three times and it’s actually for me just ok!! ££ 🐶
Seagull Method Cafe Loved this place, super cool, super delicious, be prepared to queue, for a while, but good things are worth the wait, Dogs are allowed!££ 🐶
Versailles Very traditionally Portuguese, delicious pastries, cakes, strong coffee, it also sells lunch and dinner. Tosta Mista is good as are the Bollo do Arroz. Dogs aren’t allowed inside, I’m guessing yes to the terrace, but I can’t remember seeing any. £
Food on the go/snacks/coffee
Union Portugal Empandas Oh my goodness these are so good, handmade, baked while you wait, with the quirkiest little outside dining area you’ll see!! Try them, love them, thank me later! A good Prego (Portuguese steak sandwich) is also served
Niva Lisboa Probably the best Ice-cream in the world! (Obvs taste is a subjective thing)
Pasteis de Belem The original & best Pastel de Nata in the world (be sure to call them Pastel de BELEM) They have a cute outdoor area just before the exit that I prefer
Copenhagen Coffee Great coffee, great cardamom buns, you’ll find this green delight all over the city!
Landeau Chocolate Possibly the best chocolate cake you’ll ever taste, good coffee and hot chocolate.
As Bifanas Do Afonso They say these (Portuguese spicy pork sandwich) are the best in the city, the daily queue seem to agree, I’ve tried it and was good!
Time Out Snack Heaven, every kind of snack you could desire !!! It’s busy most of the time!! Try a Crush Donut!
Potato Project Chips, chips and more chips !! I think these maybe the best chips I’ve had since I arrived here. Check out their insta !!
confiteria Nacional not so much on the go, but a stunning place for coffee and cake, step back in time, to one of Lisbons oldest establishments. Where all the locals go, especially at Christmas time you’ll see everyone queuing for the kings cakes.
Hotels
The Ivens A stunning building in the most gorgeous part of the city, the hotel is highly appraised, it also has the delightful Rocco Italian restaurant on its premises. I’ve not stayed here, but I’ve eaten in Rocco, and would very much love to stay here.
Hotel Barrio Alto An amazingly situated hotel, right in the heart of Chiado, overlooking a fabulous square on one side, with views over the river on the other, again, I’ve not stayed, but, I’ve eaten in the restaurant which was excellent and love their rooftop bar, with its fab service and cooling water mist sprays.
Four Seasons An ugly facade is the best you can say about the drive up to LFS, but once inside, this is pure unadulterated luxury, views over Lisbons Parque Edwardo, with some fabulous restaurants and bars and a pool, just a stones throw (up a steep hill) away from the most exclusive shopping area in the city.
Altis Avenida Not somewhere I’ve stayed, or even ate in, but my goddaughter recently stayed here with her friend, she said it was clean, with good service and its in one of the best locations you can find.
Hotels on the coast
Intercontinental We stayed here on our second scouting trip, I’ve blocked out the first trips hotel, its lovely, sea views, walking distance into the town, next to the gorgeous train station, where the train leisurely runs along the coast into the city. It also boasts a fab pool.
Villa Italia Our third scouting trip we stayed here, its lovely, a little more dated than the one above, a little bit more of a walk to the station, it has fab pools, indoor and outdoor, and I remember the breakfast was extremely good. But id say the rooms aren’t so smart.
The Pergola A small boutique hotel in the centre of Cascais, it’s beautiful. I’ve not stayed, but I recommended it to one of my instagram followers and they loved it.
The Albatroz My top recommendation, this place is a stunner, in the rocks overlooking the sea. In Cascais. But feels tranquil.
All the coastal hotels are near enough to jump onto the train into Lisbon, or an Uber will cost about 22-30 euros.
Rooftop Bars
Seen Fun lively, views over the city, live music, crafted cocktails, great seating areas.
Java Is a fab rooftop overlooking Time out Market, it has a great vibe, nice attentive staff, one to try if you’re in the area.
V Is an absolute gem, step onto their cool terrace and be transported to an urban sophisticated haven.
Lumi Love, love, love the cool vibe of this place. Nice and relaxed, good staff, fun vibe.
Bahr Probably my favourite, because its the most chill. Fabulous restaurant too. Situated in The Barrio Alto hotel, see above.
Miradouro (Great viewing points)
Lisbon has some incredible vantage points all over the city, you’ll find places to buy refreshments, live music, and most importantly the most epic views over the city. Below I’ve listed my favourites.
Santa Catarina A truly fun place, always lots of street musicians
Sao Pedro de Alcantara Exquisite views over the city and certain times of the year there will be street vendors.
De Senhora do Monte The highest viewpoint of Lisbon.
Da Grace Up near castle saint jorge
Das Portas do Sol Looking over the Tagus in Alfama, this Miradouro has an exceptional view of the Pantheon.
Moving around the City
Metro Clean and very easy to travel on.
Trams A lovely way to move around the city at less busy times. No. 28 will give you a full tour of the city's highlights. TopTip - Get on at Campo de Ourique rather than Martim Moniz to avoid the queues and get a nice window seat
Bus Another clean, simple & efficient way to move around.
Uber/Bolt Super cheap here and definitely your friend when it comes to climbing Lisbon's infamously steep hills.
Trains I LOVE the coastal train, From beginning (Cais do Sodre) to end (Cascais) enjoy beautiful coastal views.
Tourist spots
Castle Saint Jorge We were incredibly lucky, that we got to see this place without tourists (post Covid)
Basilica An incredible piece of architecture in Estrella, if you do do check out the tranquil gardens opposite.
Belem This is a must, so many incredible tourist spots here, along with a stunning walk away at the side of the river, plus this is the place to taste your Pastel de Nata.
Santa Justa Elevator A popular tourist attraction that takes you up to our next attraction. But you can also use the escalators in the H&M along the street for free.
Carmo Convent Was severely damaged in the 1755 earthquake, it now stands a roofless ruin, with stunning arches and beautiful gardens, they also host candlelight musical evenings.
Praço do Comércio The main square in Lisbon, it is an incredible sight to see. Don’t miss it.
LX Factory A creative hub, that in its former life was an industrial complex. It’s been transformed into a wonderful space, for art, restaurants, cafes and shops, here you’ll find the wonderful Landeau that i mentioned earlier.
Rossio Square A bustling public square, full of architectural magnificence, from impressive fountain, the tiles on the floor to the stunning buildings that surround the square.
Sailing with Sal Take a sail boat along the river, honest Tone of the most magical experiences you’ll find in Lisbon, see this wonderful city in a whole different light. We did the sunset sail and it was magnificent.
Some more dining ideas
Il Mercato - Another delightful Italian in Lisbon £££
Soi - Fab Flavours of Asia in Cais do Sodre ££
Amago - This couple have the skills and their chef's table concept is incredible ££
Fares - Cool Middle Eastern, Cais do Sodre ££
Tapisco - TBH this should be on the list above £££
Crispy Mafya - Best crispy fried chicken in Lisbon IMHO ££
Sala de Corte - Feels like a Manhattan steak house ££££
Aura dim sum - Another one that needs to be on the above list, we go loads!!!! ££
Gunpowder - Indian style food with a fancy twist ££££
Davvero - Italian, fab bottomless Bellini brunch on a Sunday ££££
Neighbourhood - Smash burgers that are drool worthy ££
Prado - Gastronomic experience to remember ££££
Boabao - Another Gem ££
Lupita Pizza - Best pizza outside of Italy and possibly in the world! £
Bistro 100 mainiras - Another super cool place in central Lisbon £££
Palaphita - Not Lisbon, this is in Cascais, lovely Brazilian with live music usually, in the fabulous Casa da Guia £££
Comeprima - Where all the Italians go to eat !! ££
O Velho Eurico - Where all the Portuguese in the know go to eat! ££
Bar do Fundo - This place ❤ Not Lisbon, Sintra. £££
Bar do Guincho - Where I go to eat (often) £££
Jncq bar - Fun, tasty, live music, WED & FRI evenings, just turn up ££
Bossa - Cool little place in the marina of Cascais ££
No thrills NANDOS - (or Somos Regalo) Best to arrive at 7pm on the dot as it will soon be full with local Portuguese families, best chicken and chips in Cascais £
Casa Galega - Fab place, but unless you really want it, don’t let them coax you into the lobster, have the lobster bitoque (Portuguese steak, chips & fried egg in garlic sauce) instead!! £££/£
Dallas Burger - SUCH GOOD BURGERS £
Solar dos Presuntos - The Langan's of PT £££
Loco - Perfection £££
Hifen - My favourite restaurant in Cascais ££
Emma - Cascais The best beach restaurant along the cascais beachfront by far ££ 🐶
Bomau Bistro fab little street food restaurant, great service, reasonably priced. I really hope these guys get the trade they deserve. 🐶 ££
Rosamar Fab fish restaurant in princpe real, gorgeous setting, amazing service. 🐶 €€€
Fabulous little airB&B here
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